11/11/2023 0 Comments Cherrymax rivet![]() ![]() It is my opinion that "knocking the heads off" like it was a solid aluminum rivet is probably the worst method because it results in damaged holes and parts, especially thin materials. There shouldn't be anything left holding the stem except friction from the bulbed end in the shank. Personally, I have never had any difficulties removing the stem after drilling past the lock ring. This method works for both button head and counter sink fasteners. The rest of the fastener is removed in the same manner as solid rivets. The only difference is, after the stem is drilled past the lock ring, a punch is used to drive out the remaining stem. When I worked on the shop floor, the common practice for cherry max removal is as giantguy describes. RE: Cherrymax removal thruthefence (Aerospace) 10 Sep 07 09:56 Make as many strips as you have rivet head diameters. One thing you could do is to get yourself some thin gauge titanium/steel and drill a hole into it (slightly bigger than the rivet head), then overlay your strip onto the rivet and you can use it as a sacrificial wear plate, just incase the grinder slips. If there were another method (i.e better) then i'm sure it would be standard practice for use. However, if memory serves, then i think its impossible to remove without any of the aforementioned methods. if you could come up with a device that works then you could make some money!! ![]() grinding is also an option which i had forgotton about to be honest, (been a while), but i suppose the level of associated damage is in relation to the skill of the engineer. If the joining materials are flimsy, or the rivet material is hard then you can get into trouble. The difficulty comes with the structural set-up. I have taken many cherrys out in my old life on the shop floor. ![]()
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